Your RV's water system is one of the most used and least maintained systems in the rig. Most people think about it only when something goes wrong — a leak, a bad smell, low pressure, or a water heater that stops working.

A little regular attention prevents most of those problems. Here's what you need to know.

Your fresh water tank is a warm, dark, enclosed space — ideal conditions for bacteria and biofilm to grow. If you've ever noticed a musty or off taste in your RV water, this is usually why.

Sanitize your tank:

• At the start of each camping season
• After any period of non-use longer than 2–3 weeks
• After any contamination event (flooding, sewage backup, etc.)
• At least once a year for full-timers

What you need:

• Household bleach (unscented, 5.25–8.25% sodium hypochlorite)
• Fresh water
• A calculator (to figure out your tank capacity)

The process:

1. Drain the tank completely
2. Mix 1/4 cup of bleach per 15 gallons of tank capacity (example: 60-gallon tank = 1 cup of bleach)
3. Add the bleach to the tank, then fill with fresh water
4. Run water through every faucet — hot and cold — until you smell bleach at each one
5. Let the solution sit for 4–12 hours (overnight is fine)
6. Drain the tank completely
7. Refill with fresh water and flush all faucets again
8. Repeat the flush until the bleach smell is completely gone

This process takes a few hours but should be done at least annually.

• Use a quality inline water filter — a sediment filter at the hookup connection removes particulates before they enter your tank
• Don't let water sit in the tank for extended periods if you're not using the rig
• Keep the tank vent screened to prevent insects from entering

Most RV water heaters are 6- or 10-gallon tank-style units that run on propane, electric, or both. They're reliable but need annual maintenance.

Anode rod replacement: Tank-style water heaters have a magnesium anode rod that sacrifices itself to prevent tank corrosion. Replace it annually — it's a 10-minute job with a 1-1/16" socket. A depleted anode rod is the most common cause of premature water heater failure.

Flushing sediment: Sediment builds up at the bottom of the tank over time. Once a year, drain the tank completely (with the pressure relief valve open) and flush with fresh water before refilling. This extends the life of the heating element and improves efficiency.

Inspecting the burner assembly: On propane units, inspect the burner tube annually for spider webs and debris — these are a common cause of ignition failure. A can of compressed air clears most blockages.

Tankless heaters have fewer maintenance requirements but should still be:

• Inspected annually for scale buildup (especially in hard water areas)
• Checked for proper ignition and flame quality
• Inspected for gas line connections and leaks

The 12V water pump pressurizes your water system when you're not connected to shore water. Signs of a failing pump:

• Pulsing pressure — the pump cycles on and off rapidly, indicating a waterlogged accumulator tank or a small leak
• Pump runs but no pressure — check for a clogged inlet filter (usually a small screen on the pump inlet)
• Pump won't prime — may indicate air in the lines or a failing pump

The accumulator tank (a small pressure tank that smooths out pump pulsing) should be checked annually. If it's waterlogged, it can be recharged with a bicycle pump to the manufacturer's specified pressure.

Use a quality inline water filter at your hookup connection. This protects your entire water system from sediment, chlorine, and other contaminants in campground water.

Replace the filter:

• Every 3 months for full-timers
• At the start of each season for seasonal campers
• Whenever you notice reduced flow or off-tasting water

A carbon block filter removes chlorine taste and odor. A sediment filter removes particulates. Many RVers use both in series.

Campground water pressure varies widely — from 20 PSI to over 100 PSI. High pressure can damage your RV's plumbing, fittings, and appliances.

Use a pressure regulator set to 40–60 PSI at every hookup. This is one of the cheapest and most important pieces of equipment you can own. A quality adjustable regulator costs $30–$50 and can prevent hundreds of dollars in plumbing damage.

If you're staying at Surfside Beach RV Park through the winter, full winterization (blowing out lines with compressed air and adding antifreeze) is generally not necessary — Gulf Coast temperatures rarely drop below freezing for extended periods.

However, if a hard freeze is forecast:

• Disconnect your water hose and store it inside
• Let faucets drip slightly to prevent freezing in exposed lines
• Wrap exposed pipes with foam insulation if your rig has exterior plumbing runs

At Surfside Beach RV Park, we're happy to answer questions about water system maintenance. Call 979-233-6919 or stop by the office.